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sherstone > A tutorial on how to move a subject in the frame.
Along with some other helpful tips.

Tutorial written and photographed by: Sean Sherstone

http://sherstone.smugmug.com/gallery/3250002_3BPVb

sherstone > Simulating Shallow Depth of Field.

A tutorial by: hawkeye978
Image supplied by: Susan Desisto

Go here for the tutorial:

http://hawkeye978.smugmug.com/gallery/3221739/1/177878472#177878518

Thanks hawkeye978 for taking the time to put this together.

sherstone > One way to sharpen and punch a hibiscus ~ Image supplied by Mom4squirrels.
This tutorial was done in Photoshop CS2. Very rough and dirty PP nothing fancy.

http://photos.sherstone.com/gallery/3184321/1

sherstone > Every Action....
"For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction."

A tutorial on how to create a simple action in Photoshop
This should apply to versions 5.5 all the way to CS3

http://photos.sherstone.com/gallery/3173745

sherstone > LAB Curves. (by Thusie)
Original post can be seen here:

http://thusie.smugmug.com/gallery/2462790/4/155166896/Large

You can hear and read lots about LAB curves being destructive to an image, yes LAB is powerful, but so is RGB and anything you do in post has the potential to be destructive. What I find is the folks who know how to use both and CMYK to enhance an image, and better yet know when they should be used, have the best of all worlds. I don't, maybe someday:-) What IS destructive no matter what you use it trying to bring back a poorly exposed/taken shot. Some folks can do wonders, but the average person usually just makes a mess, with high noise and various other uglies. PS is good, but nothing can take the place of getting it as right from the camera as possible. SS can go into all the theory behind the color etc.:-)

So here is my simple post that I use with some variation with a very simple explanation.

The orig. First thing with mammals is a scan for blue in raw and adjust the WB. First 2 screens.
The first shows what I see when I first open the RAW file. The is was the 20D and I have the EC set at -.60 (custom setting) because of how the 20D shows in RAW. EC set at 0 would be normal.

Adding the orig shot would be nice

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154942215-L.jpg

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154940908-L.jpg

There was some blue so adjusted the WB just enough to take care of that issue.
http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154940930-L.jpg

Then I open as copy, change the image to LAB and then to Adjustment Layer-Curves. Go to a channel first. Light is on the left, dark right. End points can be moved as much as you want as long as they are moved equal amounts, I rarely go past 10.
http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154941034-L.jpg

b channel the same, but since b is blue and yellow I often will move it less than than the a channel when working with mammals or they can go too yellow. So example would be moving the a end points 10 b end points 7. You can also fiddle with the diagonal lines, but that is beyond what I'm doing here. This is my simple LAB photo quick fix that is use 99% of the time.

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154941058-L.jpg

Next is the L channel when I set my light and dark points by clicking around the image to find them and moving the end accordingly. I do mess with the diagonal line here with a light hand and in all steps I use the preview button a lot.
http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154941072-L.jpg

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154941105-L.jpg

I think I should have added another screen capture for the L channel since the end points are almost always different depending on the lightest and darkest area in the photo. Example would be you click around and the darkest point reads 97, you move the upper end point horizontally to the left to that number, lightest point is 9 you do the same with the lower end point but the move is to the right.

Sharpen and done

So there is my very simple post work

sherstone > Shadow Highlight techniques (by Thusie)

First off in RAW shot was warmed from 4500K to 5100K. The shot could have went from there fine, but I wanted a bit more feather detail so off to S/H.

Orig

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154359419-L.jpg

S/H settings

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154359766-L.jpg

http://Thusie.smugmug.com/photos/154359773-L.jpg

sherstone > http://www.sherstone.com/downloads/EC.pdf

As requested by Gail (TheCuriousCamel)

please let me know if it is at all useful.

sherstone > Sky Gradients - An alternate way to make them

Image by Thusie
Her original post is here:
http://thusie.smugmug.com/gallery/2462790/15/131943980/Large

Complete tutorial is here:

http://www.sherstone.com/downloads/tut2/skygrad.zip

and a quick tutorial on how to add a custom color to your gradients pallet here:

http://www.sherstone.com/downloads/custgrad/custgrad.html

A tutorial on how to move a subject in the frame.
Along with some other helpful tips.

Tutorial written and photographed by: Sean Sherstone
http://sherstone.smugmug.com/gallery/3250002_3BPVb

Camera: Canon (Canon Eos 30d) |

More details: exif |

Original size: 900px x 584px |

Current: 400px x 260px |

Other sizes: Small • M |

filename: 14-Final Image not a Fubar |

Keywords: not final fubar

Gallery pages: 1 2 >

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